How Bagru Hand Block Printing is Done on Linen Cotton Sarees – Step-by-Step Process

Bagru, a small town near Jaipur in Rajasthan, is globally known for its traditional hand block printing. But many people don’t know how the Bagru hand block printing process is actually done — especially on modern fabrics like linen cotton sarees.

In this article, we’ll explain step-by-step how block printing is done on linen cotton fabric using traditional methods followed by Bagru artisans.

This is not machine printing. It is a slow, handmade craft that requires skill, patience, and years of experience.

“Unlike factory digital prints, Bagru block printing is done completely by hand in artisan workshops near Jaipur, Rajasthan. The process can take several days depending on the complexity of the design.”

In Bagru, the rhythmic sound of wooden blocks tapping fabric has echoed for generations. This centuries-old craft is not just printing — it is heritage, passed from one artisan family to another.

Step 1: Fabric Selection – Why Linen Cotton?

Before printing begins, the right fabric is selected.

Linen cotton is chosen because:

  • It absorbs natural dyes well
  • It allows airflow (perfect for Rajasthan climate)
  • It has strength and durability
  • It gives a structured yet soft drape

The fabric is carefully inspected for weaving defects before processing.

Step 2: Fabric Washing & Preparation (Pre-Treatment)

Raw linen cotton cannot be printed directly.

First, it goes through a washing process to:

  • Remove starch and impurities
  • Increase dye absorption
  • Soften the fabric

Traditionally, this washing was done near riverbeds in Bagru. Today, artisans still follow eco-friendly washing methods to prepare the cloth for natural dye printing.

This preparation stage is very important in the handmade saree printing process.

Step 3: Preparing Natural Dyes (Natural Dye Printing Rajasthan)

One of the most unique parts of the Bagru hand block printing process is the use of natural dyes.

In traditional Bagru printing, colors are made from:

  • Black – Iron filings + jaggery + water
  • Red – Alum + madder root
  • Indigo – Natural indigo fermentation
  • Beige / earthy tones – Harda (myrobalan fruit)

These dyes are prepared in large containers and left to mature for proper color development.

This is why natural dye printing Rajasthan is respected worldwide — it uses eco-friendly, skin-safe color techniques.

Step 4: Carving the Wooden Blocks

The designs used in Bagru printing are carved on teak wood blocks by skilled craftsmen.

Each design has:

  • Outline block
  • Filling block
  • Background block

Blocks are carved with extreme precision because even a 1 mm mistake can affect the final saree design.

Traditional Bagru motifs include:

  • Floral patterns
  • Booti designs
  • Geometric borders
  • Ethnic jaal patterns

Step 5: The Actual Block Printing (How Block Printing is Done)

Now comes the most artistic stage.

Here’s how block printing is done:

  1. The fabric is stretched tightly on long printing tables.
  2. The printer dips the wooden block into dye.
  3. The block is carefully placed on the fabric.
  4. Firm, even pressure is applied by hand.
  5. The process is repeated pattern by pattern.

Each block must align perfectly with the previous impression. This requires years of hand control and visual accuracy. In our experience working closely with Bagru artisans near Jaipur, even a small alignment mistake can waste meters of fabric.

For one saree, thousands of hand impressions may be required.

This is why every Bagru printed linen cotton saree is unique — no two pieces are 100% identical.

Step 6: Drying Under the Sun

After printing, the saree is left to dry naturally under the Rajasthan sun.

Sun drying:

  • Fixes the natural dyes
  • Enhances color depth
  • Improves durability

The desert climate of Bagru plays an important role in the final finish.

Step 7: Washing & Color Fixing

After drying, the fabric is washed again to:

  • Remove excess dye
  • Enhance softness
  • Fix colors permanently

Traditional methods involve washing in large water tanks or open spaces.

This final washing ensures the saree is comfortable for summer wear.

Step 8: Final Finishing & Quality Check

Once dried, the saree is:

  • Ironed
  • Folded carefully
  • Checked for alignment and print clarity

Only after strict quality inspection is it ready for sale.

If you want to understand the difference between fabrics, read our detailed guide on linen cotton vs pure linen sarees.

Final Thoughts

The beauty of Bagru printing lies in its imperfections — slight variations, soft natural tones, and hand-finished detailing.

From fabric preparation to natural dye mixing and hand stamping, every step in the handmade saree printing process reflects tradition and craftsmanship.

When you wear a Bagru hand block linen cotton saree, you are not just wearing fabric — you are wearing centuries of Rajasthan’s textile heritage.

Bagru vs Machine Printing – Why Handmade Matters

  • Machine prints are flat and uniform
  • Hand block printing has slight variation
  • Natural dyes age beautifully
  • Handmade supports artisan families

How to Care for a Bagru Printed Linen Cotton Saree

  • Wash separately in cold water
  • Avoid harsh detergents
  • Dry in shade
  • Iron on low heat

Frequently Asked Questions About Bagru Printing

Q1. How long does the Bagru hand block printing process take?
It can take 3–7 days depending on fabric preparation, dye fermentation, printing layers, and sun drying.

Q2. Is Bagru printing eco-friendly?
Yes. Traditional Bagru printing uses natural dyes, minimal chemicals, and sun drying methods.

Q3. What makes Bagru printing different from machine printing?
Bagru printing is done entirely by hand using carved wooden blocks, while machine printing is digital and mass-produced.

Q4. Does Bagru printing fade?
When properly dyed and washed, natural colors develop beautifully and last long with care.

You can explore our collection of Bagru hand block linen cotton sarees crafted using this traditional process.

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